In the 17th century, the Dutch and the English fought for the control of a small island in the Banda sea called Pulau Run. Therein the nutmeg trees grew in abundance, and they were found nowhere else but in Pulau Run. This is why the island was so precious, so much so that the English had to let it go to the Dutch for the sake of keeping the island of Manhattan several thousand miles away. Centuries have passed, but spices remain a crucial part of Indonesia’s story. To subscribe please click here